Thread as a Design Element: How to Choose Quilting Thread
hen quilters talk about choosing a quilting design, they tend to focus on the shapes they are going to stitch. Feathers, swirls, straight lines, background fillers, custom vs. an allover design and so on. But the thread choice can be just as important as the quilting design itself. In some cases, it may be even more important.
You can stitch the most beautiful feather in the world, but if the thread disappears completely into the fabric, no one is going to see it. On the other hand, a simple quilting design stitched in a contrasting thread can quickly become one of the main features of the quilt.
Thread can lighten or darken the overall appearance of a quilt. It can bring certain areas forward, push other areas into the background, create secondary designs, or bring together a quilt made with dozens of different colors. Thread is not simply what holds the quilt together. It is another design element.
What Should You Consider When Choosing Quilting Thread?
When choosing thread for machine quilting, there are three main things to consider: Color, weight, and fiber type. Each one affects how the finished quilting will look.
A fine thread in a matching color may practically disappear into the quilt. A heavier thread in a contrasting color can make even a basic design stand out. A shiny polyester thread may catch the light, while a matte cotton thread can create a softer appearance. There is no single thread that is right for every quilt. The best choice depends on the fabric, the quilting design, the amount of backtracking, and whether you want the quilting to blend or or be a main design element.
Using Thread Color to Change the Quilt
Thread color can completely change the personality of your quilting. You three choices when choosing a thread color: match with everything i.e. monopoly, match with nothing i.e. high contrast variegated thread, or neutral, a thread that blends with all the fabric colors. Usually this is a light gray, beige or white, but surprisingly lime green can make an excellent neutral/blending thread. Blending/neutral thread is useful when you want the quilting to add texture without becoming the main focus.
Contrasting thread does the opposite. It brings attention to every stitch. This can be a wonderful choice when the quilting itself is part of the design, but it also means that every wobble, stop, start, and backtracked line will be easier to see. That does not mean you should be afraid of contrasting thread. It simply means you need to decide whether you want the thread to whisper or yell.
You can also use thread color to create secondary designs. For example, you might quilt the center of a block with one color and use a different color around the edges. Even if the quilting designs are similar, the color change can visually separate those areas.
Thread can also help bring cohesion to a quilt containing many different fabrics. A neutral, softly variegated, or medium-value thread can travel across several colors without looking harsh on any one of them.
You should always audition your thread before quilting. Don’t just lay a strand on top of your fabric. Instead, pull of several yards and let them pool across several pieced sections. This will give you a more accurate view of what the thread will look like quilted.If possible, stitch a sample. Thread looks different on the cone than it does after it has been stitched into fabric and batting.
Tip if you have a high contrast quilt, for instance one pieced with red a white fabric, always choose the thread that blends with the lighter of the fabrics. Dark colors absorb light; while light colors reflect light. This means any imperfections will be les visible using white thread on red fabric than the reverse, red thread on white fabric. I am all for making your life easier not harder.
Understanding Thread Weight
Thread weight tells you the approximate thickness of the thread, although the labeling system can be a little confusing. With the commonly used weight system, the higher the number, the finer the thread. A 60-weight thread is finer than a 40-weight thread, while a 30-weight thread is heavier than both. This seems backward until you understand how the traditional system works.
Thread weight is based on how many kilometers of thread are needed to equal one kilogram. If it takes 40 kilometers of thread to weigh one kilogram, it is approximately a 40-weight thread. Because more yards of a fine thread are needed to reach that weight, a higher number indicates a finer thread.
Some thread labels include a second number, such as 40/2 or 50/3. The first number refers to the thread weight, while the second indicates the number of plies, or individual strands, twisted together to make the finished thread.
Unfortunately, thread manufacturers do not all use exactly the same measuring system. You may also see Tex, denier, or other numbering systems on the label. In the Tex system, the numbers work in the opposite direction. A higher Tex number means a heavier thread. For the most accurate comparisons, compare threads made from the same type of fiber because cotton, polyester, and silk do not weigh exactly the same even when their diameters look similar.
The lesson here is not that you need to become a thread mathematician. Most of us have enough math in our lives already. The important thing is to understand that the number on the spool affects how visible the stitches will be and how much thread will build up when you backtrack.
Choosing Thread Weight for the Quilting Design
A 40-weight thread is a good general-purpose choice for many allover and edge-to-edge quilting designs. It is visible enough to add texture and definition without becoming overly heavy.
For dense custom quilting, especially designs requiring a lot of backtracking, I often prefer a 50- or 60-weight thread. The finer thread reduces buildup where stitched lines cross or travel over one another. This is particularly useful when quilting feathers. A heavier thread can cause the feather spine to look more like a tree trunk after you have backtracked over it several times.
Finer threads are also helpful for small background fillers, microquilting, and detailed designs. As your quilting designs become smaller, you generally need more stitches per inch to keep the curves smooth. A fine thread allows those stitches to sit closer together without losing definition.
Heavier threads, such as 12-, 28-, or 30-weight, create bold, decorative lines. Depending on the thread and machine, they may work well for decorative stitching, couching, or bobbin work. You should always check the manufacturer’s recommendations before using a very heavy thread through the needle.
Matching Thread Weight to Needle Size
The thread needs enough room to pass smoothly through the eye and groove of the needle. If the needle is too small for the thread, the thread may rub against the eye, shred, break, or create inconsistent tension. If the needle is unnecessarily large, it may leave larger holes in the quilt.
SCHMETZ recommends that the needle eye be approximately 40 percent larger than the diameter of the thread. In practical terms, thicker thread usually requires a larger needle, while finer thread can be used with a smaller needle.
The type of needle, fabric, batting, machine, and quilting speed can all affect the best choice. Longarm needle sizes may also be labeled differently than domestic machine needles, so follow the recommendations for your particular machine.
If your thread is shredding or repeatedly breaking, do not immediately blame the tension. Try a new needle, confirm that it is the correct size, and make sure the thread can move freely through the eye.
Types of Quilting Thread
There are hundreds of threads available today, and each type has advantages and disadvantages.
Cotton Thread
Cotton thread has a soft, matte appearance that blends beautifully with cotton quilting fabrics. It is available in a wide range of weights and colors and is popular with quilters who prefer a traditional look. Because cotton is a natural fiber, it can produce more lint than many polyester threads. The amount of lint varies depending on the thread’s quality and construction, so you may need to clean the bobbin area more frequently. It also has a lower melting coefficient than poly so you need to quilt slower when using cotton than you do with poly to avoid breaking.
Polyester Thread
Polyester is my personal favorite for much of my quilting. It is strong, consistent, and available in everything from very fine blending threads to heavier decorative threads. It generally creates less lint than cotton and can withstand the speed and friction produced during machine quilting. Some polyester threads have a noticeable sheen, while others are designed with a softer, more matte finish.
Despite the rumor that polyester thread will cut through cotton fabric, quality polyester quilting thread is safe to use on cotton quilts. Think about a cotton T-shirt. It is usually sewn together with polyester thread, then worn, stretched, and washed far more often than most quilts. The shirt may eventually wear out, but it rarely falls apart because the polyester thread sliced through the seams.
Cotton-Wrapped Polyester Thread
Cotton-wrapped polyester combines a polyester core with an outer layer of cotton. The polyester core adds strength, while the cotton covering gives the thread a softer, less shiny appearance. It can be a good compromise for quilters who prefer the look of cotton but want some of the strength and consistency of polyester.
Silk Thread
Silk is extremely fine but surprisingly strong. It is excellent for detailed quilting, appliqué, microquilting, and areas where you want the stitches to nearly disappear. Because it is so fine, it can also reduce buildup in heavily backtracked designs. Silk can be more expensive than cotton or polyester, but a fine thread goes a long way.
Monofilament and Mono-Poly Thread
Monopoly thread is a clear, non-dyed or smoke-colored poly thread. It is useful when you need one thread to cross many different fabric colors without drawing attention It’s soft and flexible and made specifically for sewing or quilting. Monofilament is fishing line and can yellow and become brittle over time. I don’t recommend it for quilting.
Rayon Thread
Rayon thread is known for its beautiful shine and is commonly used for machine embroidery. I generally do not recommend it for quilting. Rayon is designed primarily for decorative embroidery, where the stitches are supported by many neighboring stitches. A single line of quilting does not provide that same support, and rayon may not hold up as well to wear and washing. It can look beautiful, but beauty is not terribly helpful if the thread breaks after the quilt has been used.
Let the Thread Support the Design
The next time you choose a quilting design, don’t wait until the last minute to think about the thread. Decide what you want the quilting to accomplish. Should it blend into the fabric and add texture? Should it outline the piecing? Should it become a bold feature? Do you need a fine thread for heavy backtracking, or would a thicker thread help a simple design make more of an impact?
Test the thread with your fabric, batting, and needle before starting the quilt. A small sample can save you a lot of frustration, thread breakage, and creative vocabulary later. Most importantly, remember that there is rarely one perfect choice. Thread is another tool you can use to control how the finished quilt looks and feels. Choose it on purpose, let it work with the quilting design, and don’t be afraid to experiment. That is how you discover what works best for you, your machine, and your quilts.
What Thread Do You Reach for Most Often?
Do you prefer cotton, polyester, silk, or something else? Do you prefer your thread to blend in, or do you like it to stand out and become part of the design?
Leave a comment and let me know what thread you use most often, or what part of choosing thread gives you the most trouble. Your question may help another quilter who is wondering the same thing.
And if you would like more hands-on help with thread choices, quilting designs, tension, troubleshooting, and all the little decisions that can make machine quilting easier, check out my upcoming in-person classes. I teach at quilt shows and guilds throughout the year, and I would love to quilt with you in person.
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