Flat, Straight, and Finished Part 2
In Part 1, Flat, Straight, and Finished: Why the Way You Bind Matters, we talked about how much your binding affects the way a quilt hangs, lies flat, and behaves along the outer edge. A quilt can be beautifully pieced, carefully quilted, and squared every time it is rolled, but if the edge finish is fighting you, the whole quilt can still end up waving, rippling, or not hanging straight.
Ask me how I know.
That first post focused mostly on why binding matters and how the outside edge of the quilt can make or break the final result. In this post, we are going to take the next step and look at the different ways you can actually finish that edge. Most of the time, that finish will be binding. But binding is not the only option. Depending on the quilt, you may also want to use a facing or, in some cases, a knife-edge finish. So let’s look at the three ways to finish your quilt: binding, facing, and knife-edge finishing, and when each one makes the most sense.
Binding: Single Fold vs. Double Fold
Binding is the most common way to finish a quilt, and it falls into two categories: single fold binding and double fold binding.
Double fold binding is the one most quilters are familiar with. For double fold binding, you cut your fabric eight times the finished width of your binding, plus a little extra for the thickness of the quilt sandwich. For example, if you want a finished binding that is 1/4″ wide, the math looks like this: 1/4″ × 8 = 2″ Then add a smidge for the thickness of the quilt sandwich, which usually brings you to about 2 1/4″.
After cutting and joining your binding strips, you fold the strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. The raw edges of the binding are aligned with the raw edge of the quilt sandwich, sewn to the front of the quilt, and then turned to the back. The folded edge is stitched down along the seam line.
Single fold binding is cut differently. Instead of cutting the fabric eight times the finished width, you cut it four times the finished width, plus a smidge. Using that same 1/4″ finished binding example: 1/4″ × 4 = 1″ Add a smidge, and you are usually around 1 1/8″.
With single fold binding, one raw edge is sewn to the edge of the quilt. Then the binding is folded over the seam line toward the top of the quilt. The remaining raw edge is folded under toward the edge of the quilt, creating a finished edge that is aligned with the seam line and stitched down.
Is Double Fold Binding Stronger?
There is a school of thought that double fold binding is stronger than single fold binding. In theory, two layers are stronger than one. But here is the thing: the top layer of a double fold binding wears out at the same rate as a single fold binding. Once that outer layer wears through, the binding still needs to be repaired. So in practical use, single fold binding is just as strong as double fold binding for most quilts.
Single fold binding also has several advantages. First, it uses half the fabric. That alone can be a pretty good reason to consider it, especially if you are working with limited yardage or expensive fabric. Second, single fold binding is more forgiving. If you are rotary-cutter challenged like I am, this is not a small thing.
With double fold binding, there is very little wiggle room. If your binding width or seam allowance is not perfectly even, you may find yourself fighting it when you turn it to the back. With single fold binding, you have a little room to adjust. You can fold it under a little more or a little less as needed so the finished edge lands where it should. That bit of flexibility can save a lot of frustration.
When to Use Bias Binding
If your quilt has curves along the outside edge, you need to use bias binding. This is not a choice. Your binding will not curve around the edge of the quilt if it is not cut on the bias. Bias binding stretches, which allows it to move smoothly around curves. Straight grain binding does not have that same flexibility.
For curved edges, use single fold bias binding. Bias gives you the stretch you need to move around the curves, and single fold allows that stretch to keep working. If you use double fold bias binding, the two folded layers can work against each other. One side of the fold is stretching in one direction while the other side is stretching in the opposite direction, which cancel out the benefit of using bias in the first place.
So for scallops, curved edges, double wedding ring quilts, or other shaped quilt edges, single fold bias binding is your friend.
Joining Binding Strips Without Losing Your Mind
Binding strips are usually joined on the diagonal because a diagonal seam spreads out the bulk. That makes the finished binding smoother and less lumpy. The traditional method is to place two strips right sides together in an “L” shape and sew diagonally from corner to corner. If that works for you, wonderful.
I, however, have a special talent for sewing it the wrong direction. Instead of opening into one long straight strip, mine often opens into a reverse “L.” Very helpful. Exactly what I wanted. Not. So I started doing it differently.
I lay one strip right side down, fold one corner up at a 45-degree angle, run a thin bead of glue along the fold, and then place the next strip, also right side down, on top. I heat set the glue to dry it, open the strips, sew along the crease, and then trim the seam allowance.
This way, I know the strips are going to open in the right direction. I also know the edges are going to match because they were glued in place before I ever got to the sewing machine. You can use this same trick when joining the binding ends after the binding has already been sewn to the quilt. I find this method gives me a finished binding that is the correct length without needing to do a bunch of binding math.
I know the math is not really that bad, but sometimes the instructions feel like they say, “Take the width of the binding, subtract the derivative of pi, multiply by the humidity in the room, and then hope for the best.” Thanks, but I’ll pass. LOL
This glue trick is one of those little things that makes binding a whole lot more stress free. You can find more tips like this in my book Stress Free Quilting Borders, Bindings, and More.
Facing a Quilt
Facing is another way to finish a quilt edge. It is commonly used on art quilts because it creates a clean, uninterrupted edge. From the front, you do not see a frame of binding around the quilt.
I also like facing for quilts with irregular edges, such as double wedding ring quilts and grandmother’s flower garden quilts. In many cases, facing is considerably easier and faster than traditional binding, especially when the edge has lots of curves, points, or both.
It is also usually much easier than trying to do a knife-edge finish on a complicated edge.
How to Face a Quilt
To face a quilt with straight edges, cut two strips the length of the quilt by your desired facing width. If you are facing a quilt with an irregular edge, the facing needs to be wide enough to cover the deepest part of the shape, plus extra for turning and stitching. For example, on a double wedding ring quilt, if the distance from the outside curved edge of the melon to the inner point is 2″, the facing should be at least 3″ wide.
Fold one long edge of each facing strip under 1/4″ with wrong sides together and press.
Place the unfolded edge of one facing strip along the top edge of the quilt sandwich. I like to glue it in place first. Then sew using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Repeat with the remaining strip along the bottom edge of the quilt.
Press the facing strip away from the quilt, then fold it to the back and press again.
Here is a helpful tip: before adding the facing strips, carefully trim the batting and backing only 1/4″ below the edge of the quilt top. This decreases bulk and makes it easier to press the facing smoothly to the back.
After pressing the top and bottom facings, turn them back toward the front temporarily.
Next, cut two more facing strips for the sides of the quilt. These should be the length of the quilt sides minus 1″, and the same width as the first two facing strips. Making the side strips slightly shorter helps reduce bulk in the corners.
Fold one long edge of each side strip under 1/4″ and press, just as you did before.
Align the unfolded edge of one side strip with the raw edge of the quilt, placing it 1/2″ in from both the top and bottom edges. Glue it in place, then sew using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Repeat on the other side.
Carefully trim the corners, making sure not to clip into the seams.
Fold all of the facing strips to the back of the quilt, gently push out the corners, and press. Then hand sew the folded edges of the facing to the back of the quilt.
Facing Irregular Edges
If you are facing an irregular-edged quilt, you will need to do a little extra clipping and trimming before turning the facing to the back.
Clip off points where needed to reduce bulk. Clip into the seam allowance on any inside “V” areas so the facing can turn cleanly.
This is one of the reasons I like facing for irregular edges. It is usually faster, cleaner, and stronger than trying to miter a bajillion points with traditional binding.
It also saves you from attempting fabric origami with a knife-edge finish.
And honestly, I rather use the time I saved on piecing/quilting more quilts.
Knife-Edge Finish
The last method is a knife-edge finish. I am only going to touch on this briefly because, I freely admit, I do not use it.
A knife-edge finish creates a very clean edge with no visible binding on the front or facing on the back. To do this, you separate the quilt top and backing at the outer edge of the quilt sandwich. Then you carefully trim about 1/4″ off the batting.
Next, the backing is folded under, and the quilt top is also folded under 1/4″ so the top and backing are aligned with each other. The folded edges are then hand stitched together.
A knife-edge finish can look beautiful, especially on certain art quilts or pieces that will not get much handling. But it is incredibly time consuming and, in my opinion, the least durable of the edge finishes.
For that reason, I rarely recommend it for quilts that will be used, washed, and/or well loved.
Choosing the Right Finish
There is no one perfect edge finish for every quilt.
A bed quilt, baby quilt, or quilt that will get regular use usually needs a sturdy binding. A show quilt may need a binding that helps it hang flat and straight. An art quilt may look better with a facing so the design goes all the way to the edge. An irregular-edged quilt may be much easier to finish with facing than with traditional binding.
The important thing is to choose the finish that supports the quilt instead of fighting it That edge is not just the last step. It is the frame, the structure, and the final opportunity to help the quilt behave. And yes, I realize “help the quilt behave” makes it sound like quilts have personalities.
If you have ever tried to bind a wavy quilt at midnight before a show deadline, you know they absolutely do.
Want More Help with Bindings and Borders?
If binding has ever made you question your life choices, you are not alone. Bindings, borders, scallops, facings, and edge finishes are some of those areas where a few small changes can make a huge difference.
I cover these techniques in much more detail in my book Stress Free Quilting: Borders, Bindings, and More, including tips for getting borders to behave, choosing the right binding, handling tricky edges, and avoiding some of the common problems that keep quilts from lying flat and hanging straight.
I also teach classes and lectures on these topics for guilds, shows, and quilt groups. If your group would like a practical, no Quilt Police approach to borders, bindings, and finishing techniques, I would love to help make the process a little less stressful.
Because finishing your quilt should feel like the victory lap.
Not the part where everything goes sideways.
Flat straight and finished part 2
Flat straight and finished part 2
Flat straight and finished part 2
Flat straight and finished part 2
Flat straight and finished part 2
Flat straight and finished part 2
Flat straight and finished part 2
Flat straight and finished part 2
Flat straight and finished part 2
Flat straight and finished part 2
Flat straight and finished part 2
Flat straight and finished part 2
Flat straight and finished part 2
Flat straight and finished part 2
Flat straight and finished part 2
OMG, Kris! You are hysterically funny! You also just gave me the solution to finishing the edges of an art quilt that is intended to look like a very, very old map. Thank you!
So glad I could give you a laugh and help with your art quilt. I would love to see a pic when it’s done.