Quilted Garments You Actually Want to Wear
Quilted garments are everywhere right now. Scroll social media or walk through a quilt show, and you’ll see jackets, coats, and even dresses made from quilts or quilted fabric. Some are stunning. Some… not so much.
Let’s be honest. A lot of quilted garments look stiff, bulky, or just plain hard to wear in real life. They lack shape, don’t drape well, and often feel more like wearable art than something you’d actually reach for in your closet. I grew up sewing and making clothes, but when I first started quilting I never made quilted garments. Why? because everything I saw looked like something the Michelin Man would wear. It wasn’t until I’d been quilted for 4 or 5 years that I said to myself “You idiot, you know how to sew. They don’t have to look like this!” and they don’t. With a little planning and a shift in how you approach the process, you can create quilted garments that are flattering, functional, and something you genuinely want to wear.
Garments from Quilts vs. Quilted Garments
There’s an important distinction that makes all the difference. I know that a lot of people want to repurpose old quilts, and I’m all for that. Just don’t make them into a garment. Make a handbag, a pillow, a placemat, anything but a garment. Why?
Garments made from quilts tend to:
- Lack structure
- Be difficult to fit or alter
- Feel bulky and stiff
- Limit design flexibility
They are made from cotton tops, cotton backs, and cotton batting. Making them harder to transform into a garment.
Quilted garments, on the other hand, are designed from the start to be worn. That means you’re thinking about drape, fit, and movement from the very beginning.
That shift alone changes everything.
The first picture is a vintage pieced jacket made from a quilt. It is probably wonderfully warm and comfortable, but it doesn’t have any shape. I don’t care if you are a size 2 or a 22, nobody looks good as a sausage casing. There is something to be said for looking good helping you to feel good about yourself.
The second picture is a commercial jean jacket pattern I made using orphan quilt blocks I had laying around. By picking and choosing which parts to quilt, I was able to adjust the fit and shape of the jacket.
Start with the Right Pattern
One of the biggest misconceptions is that you need a special “quilted garment pattern.” You don’t.
In fact, many quilted jacket patterns are limited, often one-size-fits-all, and don’t always give you the best results. Instead, look at commercial garment patterns.
When choosing a pattern, keep this in mind:
- Fewer seams make your life easier
- Patterns designed for heavier fabrics work best (You can and I would use light weight fabric for the top, but remember it will be a “heavier” weight once it is quilted. )
- Simple shapes often translate better to quilted fabric
- Zipper and snap placement matters more than you think (The last thing I want to mess with is putting a zipper into 3-6 layers of quilted fabric.)
I used Simplicity Pattern 2341 for this vest. The body of the best is quilted, but the facing and collar are not. This allows it to lie flat and not be as bulky around the neck line. The stripes are done with ribbon that were added after the vest was quilted.
The pattern is a suggestion, not a rule.
Turning Any Pattern into a Quilted Garment
You can use almost any pattern; you just need to think strategically.
Look for opportunities to add quilting and/or piecing:
- Not every section needs to be quilted
- Mixing quilted and unquilted sections improves drape
- Plan your quilting before you cut
Also consider your design elements early if adding piecing:
- Where will blocks go?
- Can you eliminate seams?
- How large are your pattern pieces compared to your any pieced blocks you want to add?
I love this jacket pattern, but all of the seams would make adding piecing or quilting more difficult. You could eliminate the back seam by cutting it on the fold instead of in 2 pieces, but if you eliminated the princess seams on the sides of this pattern, it would totally change the fit. If you do remove seams, don’t forget to subtract out the seam allowance.
This is where good planning saves a lot of frustration later.
Always Start with a Mockup
If you skip this step, you’re guessing. And guessing with fabric is expensive.
Before cutting into your real fabric:
- Audition fabrics and trims
- Sketch out your design
- Use muslin to test the fit, but keep in mind that the drape will be slightly different with the quilted fabric.
- Evaluate drape and weight
This step alone can take your garment from “homemade” to “intentional.”
Cutting for Quilted Garments (This Is Critical)
Fabric behaves very differently once it is quilted. You know all those lines and arrows on your patterns that say align with grain line? Those are important for making sure the bias of the fabric is running the way it needs to for correct fit and drape of your garment. Once quilted, the bias no longer stretches the same way, so you need to plan for this.
Normally we want to quilt things flat, but for quilted garments I will actually use my hand to push on the material when I am quilting to put curves where I need them on the finished garment. You also need to consider that fact that quilting will make the fabric shrink and that the inside of the quilted garment is smaller than the outside. (Think putting a T-shirt over a sweatshirt) I wear a size larger quilted garment then I do a regular one.
When cutting:
- Cut pieces 3-4 sizes larger than your final size
- Include standard 5/8” seam allowances (note this is much larger than a quilter’s standard 1/4″)
- Mark right sides carefully, especially for nondirectional fabric (There’s nothing worse than quilting 2 left front sections.)
- Mark quilting designs if needed (if you want designs to be symmetrical I recommend marking. Make sure marks are inside the desired size, not the larger cut size, or you will lose some of your design.)
And most important: Do NOT cut to final size before quilting.
Working with Darts and Pleats
- Mark and sew darts before quilting (this avoids unnecessary bulk)
- Slit darts and press them open
- Layer section with dart on top of batting and backing and then quilt aft
If possible:
- Avoid quilting over pleats
- Quilt only sections of a pattern piece instead of the whole thing
A little planning here prevents bulk and awkward shaping later.
Fabric Choices Matter More Than You Think
If your garment feels stiff, bulky, or uncomfortable, fabric is usually the reason.
For better results:
- Use lightweight fabrics whenever possible (remember they will be heavier when quilted.)
- Combine quilted sections with heavier, unquilted fabrics
- Don’t limit yourself to cotton
Try:
- Linen
- Silk blends
- Rayons
This is where creativity really comes into play.
Where to Add Quilted Elements
You don’t have to quilt the entire garment. In fact, you often shouldn’t.
Strategic placement makes a huge difference:
- Yokes are perfect for adding interest
- Pockets are a great place to showcase blocks
- Backs can feature statement designs
- Cuffs and collars can be subtle highlights
This approach keeps the garment wearable while still letting your quilting shine.
Placing Quilt Blocks Successfully
Using blocks in garments can look amazing, if they’re placed correctly.
Before cutting:
- Measure both the block and the pattern piece
- Account for seam allowances
- Decide if pattern pieces can be cut on the fold
Helpful tips:
- Treat straight seams as a single unit
- Add fabric around blocks as needed
- Always cut larger than needed
And again:
Do not trim to final size until after quilting.
Quilting The Garment
- Use lightweight batting (silk is an excellent choice)
- Use organza as a backing
- Line with light weight fabric (i.e. acetate)
Also:
- Avoid quilting sleeves
- Skip quilting small collars that need to roll or fold instead
- Focus quilting on areas like waistbands or cuffs
The goal is flexibility, not stiffness.
After Quilting
Once quilting is complete:
- Match any darts or pleats you’ve already sewn to pattern before cutting
- add additional fabric to pieces if necessary
- Cut pieces to final pattern size (Remember you may want to go a size larger.)
Remember:
- Most pieces require both a left and a right side
- Accuracy here makes construction much smoother
Constructing Your Garment
Now you’re back in familiar territory, but with a few adjustments.
Consider:
- Will the garment be lined?
- How will you finish seams?
- Consider flat lining garments for a smoother finish
To reduce bulk:
- Press seams open whenever possible
- Use a serger for heavier fabrics
These small choices make a big difference in the final feel of the garment.
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